Install crown molding tricks

We learned a little about putting up crown moulding with our first house; learned to back cut corners as needed to get them to fit tighter. Wow this looks amazing! Ruth, thank you for stopping by! Yes, this color was a bit of a bold choice for me, but I love it so much. Our kitchen and dining room have been taupe and beige for almost 20 years. Most everyone I know is using grays in these type of rooms.

I love color. I have been looking for a color in the aqua family. The color you have chose in your dining room is lovely. Would you please share with me the color you selected? Hi Holly! Hi, thank you for sharing this wonderful tricks of crown molding. I have certainly picked up something new here. Skip to content Install crown like a pro with these 8 tricks to DIY crown molding! Getting Started: Before you start the installation of your DIY crown molding gather all your materials and set up your saw in an open space where you can maneuver the lengths of trim.

The pros call this a build-up! Yes, sign me up! Email Address. First Name. Best of the Weekend — Link Up Party Naming Your House.

Thanks so much Lorin! Outside corners can be tricky to get pretty, especially short runs. I like to glue the corner before nailing in place. It bonds really fast with just hand pressure and it has about 3 minutes of reposition time. Versus the instant ones where you gotta get it right in 3 seconds or less. Fill all of the nail holes and scarf joints with putty and caulk the seams.

Use multiple coats of putty to repair damaged sections, letting it dry and sanding between coats to achieve a smooth finish. Once all of these flaws are filled in you will be amazed at how professional the finish looks. Then paint or use finish of your choice and your crown molding installation is complete. Thanks for the tips! A photo of what the vertical nesting looks like and the jig to hold it would be very helpful. Need some help figuring out the miter angle for coping the inside corner, 38 degree spring angle, corner is nearly 90 degrees, any tips?

I also have to cut the crown flat, should I be mitering and beveling? What angle for each? Your email address will not be published. Yes, add me to your mailing list. Terms of Use. Privacy Policy. Although it is my intention to provide accurate plans and clear instructions, not all plans have been tried and tested. Using plans or information found on SawdustGirl. All plans are for private use only. Plans and information published on SawdustGirl. Actual projects built using Sawdust Girl plans may be published on your own site without instructions or "tutorial" as long as you provide a link to my original post with full post title or "SawdustGirl.

You Subscribed! Cut Crown Molding and Install like a Pro — Tips and Tricks Crown is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to add architectural interest and WOW to any room, but it can be a bit tricky to install.

Sewer Saga continued… ». Comments Thanks for the tips! After checking for fit on the wall, cut the uncoped end square and butt it against the far corner to meet another coped piece on the next wall. For outside corners on crown molding, position the molding upside down and face up in the miter fence or miter box. You will be placing the molding so the ceiling-side will be flat against the bottom of the saw base, and the wall-side will be flat against the vertical back fence. Ideally you will need to make a degree cut on one end of one piece, and another 45 on the intersecting piece.

However, walls are often out of square, so first check the angle with an angle gauge and cut accordingly. Note: The profile of the molding may feature a variety of designs, such as an ogee wave usually placed at top or crown dentil trim usually at bottom. This homeowener preferred the crown be installed with the ogee at the bottom, against the wall. Check the outside angle with an angle finder, then cut a miter on the second strip to match the first.

One tip on outside corners: First cope the opposite end of the molding, hold it along the wall and butted against the preceding piece, letting the end run long over the corner.

Mark the cutline where the molding overhangs the corner. Then make a miter cut at that mark. Do the same for the adjoining piece. You can then smooth the joint by running the rounded edge of a nail set over it to press the fibers closed.

For thick, heavy moldings or problem gaps, drill pilot holes at the top and bottom of the joint, and drive 4d finish nails perpendicular through one molding into the end of the other. This is done by making an angled scarf joint. Mark the molding strips for degree cuts that will position the joint over a wall stud.

Make the miters in opposite directions on the ends of the adjoining pieces, so they fit together flush. Then caulk all the seams and polish it off with your favorite finish. Smooth Cuts —For the best appearance, cut into the finished face of the molding to prevent tear-out. With power miter saws, use a fine-toothed blade. When cutting with a miter box, try candle wax or furniture polish to lubricate the blade. Nail it right —On this job I was eager to test a new Kobalt belt-mounted CO2 regulator, so I used a pneumatic finish nailer.

The regulator performed very well, and so did the nailer for that matter. But a word of caution: You must be extremely careful when using a powered nailer on trim. I admit, after installing the crown, I had some puttying to do. A more traditional way to nail is with a finish hammer and finish nails. Then use a nail set to drive all nails below the surface of the molding. Fill the holes with caulk or wood putty. Finishing —A variety of molding finishes are available.

Many come prefinished and ready to install in white or a variety of woodgrain colors.